Capturing the Spirit of Western Sichuan: A Photographer’s Guide to the High Plateau Near Tibet
Nestled in the heart of Sichuan Province, China, Western Sichuan offers a stunning blend of dramatic landscapes, rich Tibetan culture, and unforgettable road trip experiences.
Over 10 days this October, my family and I embarked on a road trip from Chengdu, capital city of Sichuan Province in China, covering highlights like Four Ladies Mountain, Ganzi, Genie Holy Mountain, Gong Ga - the King of Sichuan Mountains, and beyond. This guide will take you through breathtaking scenery, cultural gems, and tips for navigating the challenges of this high-altitude adventure.
Travel Highlights
The following highlights were documented in the order of our travel itinerary in the counter clockwise loop direction. You can certainly travel clockwise in the other direction.
Please refer to the end of this blog for logistic tips. On the entire 10-day road trip, we didn’t see any westerners except very few on day 1 and day 10, close to our staring point Chengdu.
This might not be a trip you can easily figure out without a tour guide (whom we’ve hired for the entire trip). We had to seek help of a local travel agency to custom design the route for us, due to the long distance, the remoteness of the area and the limited phone reception to get GPS if you choose to self drive.
However, landscapes were otherworldly gorgeous throughout the entire trip, and 100% worth the effort.
Four Ladies Mountain (Siguniangshan)
Dubbed the "Oriental Alps," Four Ladies Mountain boasts four majestic peaks surrounded by pristine valleys. Shuangqiao Valley offers a tranquil setting with snow-capped peaks mirrored in glacial lakes, perfect for reflection shots. Changping Valley, accessible by a short hike, provides stunning views of alpine forests and streams. This area is a must-visit for landscape photographers seeking dramatic vistas.
We stopped over at 5 airports (Seattle - Seoul - Shanghai Pudong - Shanghai Hongqiao - Chengdu Tianfu) for the first 4 days after leaving US, just in order to enter the plateau in west Sichuan China and experience Tibetan culture first hand before winter.
With jet lag, high altitude, lack of sleep and our kids’ spicy food refusal, it’s a new challenge for me to capture my signature travel photos - most of the time my kids were whining or walking with eyes closed. Perhaps one day they will remember the magnificent scenes and treasure the memories.
Danba: The Land of Watchtowers
Danba, known as the "Valley of Beauties," is famous for its ancient Tibetan watchtowers and picturesque villages. The villages of Jiaju and Zhonglu are particularly photogenic, with traditional Tibetan stone houses perched on terraced hillsides.
Golden hour here bathes the valley in a warm glow, making it ideal for capturing the essence of Tibetan rural life.
We stayed in a hotel called Peekaboo perched in the middle of mountains, and offered a peaceful reflection from the rooftop swimming pool, which no one would jump in during the chilly late fall season.
Despite the full day travel on day one and checking in late on the first night, I was the first one arriving at the pool in early morning, and enjoyed some lone but luxury photo time.
Yala Snow Mountain
Located in the eastern Tibetan Plateau of Sichuan Province, Yala Snow Mountain is a majestic peak rising to an elevation of 5,820 meters, revered as a sacred mountain by local Tibetans.
Its pristine glaciers, rugged cliffs, and snow-capped summit create a breathtaking scene that dominates the surrounding alpine landscape. Known as the “Second Genie Holy Mountain”, it offers a blend of spiritual significance and natural beauty, making it a must-visit for adventurers and photographers.
It’s hard to use words to describe the beauty. We reached over 4000 m (over 13000 ft) for the first time on our second day on the road trip. I was slightly out of breath when carrying my camera gear or a 7 yo who refused to eat local food. But rest assured, I enjoyed every moment.
Ganzi: Gateway to the Tibetan Plateau
As you ascend into Ganzi, the landscape transforms into vast grasslands dotted with yaks and Tibetan prayer flags.
Ganzi Town is a cultural hub originally under the plan to be set up as the capital of the Ganzi State (one of the three states in Sichuan Province) due to its relatively flat landscape.
The plan never materialized, but it offered a feast for your lens, from red-robed monks, intricate Tibetan monasteries, colorful prayer wheels to breathtaking snow mountains surrounding the town.
As we approach to the higher plateau, the snow scenes were more prevalent.
The best season to enjoy Ganzi Town, as we were told by our driver guide, was fall, typically from late August to early September. You’ll enjoy miles and miles of hulless barley fields blanketing the landscape in vibrant golden hues during the peak harvest season, offering a stunning backdrop for photography.
Gan Bai Rd: A Scenic Masterpiece
This winding road is one of the most scenic routes in the region, cutting through dramatic mountain passes and valleys.
Every turn reveals new photographic opportunities, from golden grasslands to snow-dusted peaks. It's a reminder that the journey itself is as rewarding as the destinations.
Just to give you an idea of the pace of this trip. We've traveled over 1500km for the first 4 days of our road trip in west Sichuan of China (as opposed to 2000+ km over 2 weeks in Iceland this summer). Most of the time, we were driving in the elevation between 3500 and 5000m, crossing multiple mountains every day.
It was a very different type of travel from what we were used to. Too many unnamed mountains are just as gorgeous as a named attraction in any national parks (such as Grand Teton or Glacier National Park) we've visited. Perhaps after this trip, I might not be eager to see any other mountains for a while.
Ta De Temple
Ta De Temple, nestled in the serene highlands of Ta De in Sichuan Province, is a historic and spiritual Tibetan Buddhist site surrounded by snow-capped peaks. It is also known as the temple above clouds.
This Tibetan Buddhism temple features intricately carved prayer wheels, colorful frescoes, and traditional Tibetan architecture that stands as a testament to centuries of devotion.
Probably less visited by other temples in the area due to its remoteness, the temple provides a tranquil escape. At 4200 meters (nearly 14,000 ft) above sea level Its elevated position offers breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding valleys, making it a hidden gem for photographers and spiritual seekers alike.
Imagine traveling on a one lane rugged cliff path zigzagging upslope for two hours without phone reception in the snow mountains. That was what it took us to find Ta De Temple.
I met my teacher, the head monk of the temple, also known as a reincarnated living buddha, 16 years ago.
For the first time, we travelled to his temple located above the cloud. The route was the hardest road I’d traveled, but it had the best mountain scene I had ever seen and photographed.
Dege Tibetan Scripture Printing Temple
Three hours away, a cultural treasure near the Tibetan border awaits us. Dege’s temple houses thousands of intricately carved wooden printing blocks of Tibetan scripture.
The rhythmic sound of printing presses operated by monks creates a serene, almost spiritual atmosphere, making it a dream destination for cultural photographers.
You are not allowed to take photos in the temple, but if you have a chance, this is a must stop.
Litang: The High City
Known as the "High City," Litang sits at over 4,000 meters above sea level. This area is steeped in Tibetan culture, with its annual horse racing festival offering vibrant photo opportunities.
Litang Monastery, one of the largest in the region, is a serene spot to capture Tibetan spiritual practices and stunning architecture against a backdrop of rolling hills.
Genie Holy Mountain
Genie Holy Mountain (Genyen Sacred Mountain) is one of the most spiritually significant and visually stunning locations in this region. Known to Tibetans as a sacred pilgrimage site, Genie’s peaks rise sharply against the sky, their rugged forms cloaked in snow and mysticism.
Our road trip was not short of gorgeous scenes, but after Four Ladies Mountains, we haven’t seen many people until we arrived at Genie’s Eye.
Photographers will marvel at the interplay of light and shadow across the mountain's peaks during golden hour, adding depth and drama to every frame.
It must be one of the most sought after site for photo enthusiasts. We saw drones flying over the “Eye” (above image) during sunrise and sunset. Local tourists dressed into local Tibetan outfits and posed for unique portraits.
As someone who almost never stop my family and kids to pose for my photos on our trips, I couldn’t stop clicking at the breathtaking view. I even volunteered myself to be photographed, something I rarely did, although I had to walk a number of times until my husband got the right composition I wanted. (check out my most used and favorite composition tips).
South Genie Pass
At South Genie Pass, the views are nothing short of extraordinary. Despite 10km of bumpy ride at snail speed (4x4 is a must!) during the long drive, the pass offers a panoramic perspective of Genie Holy Mountain and its surrounding alpine meadows.
Tian Shao, our jeep driver for the entire road trip, who has been guiding tourists in Sichuan and Tibet for 8 years, knew exactly where to stop for my photos while staying away from other tourists. At the foot of Genie Holy Mountain, he set up a tea table one morning for us to enjoy the serenity that this place inspires.
Along the pass, we reached the highest point of this road trip at 4939m.
This is probably the most physically challenging trip we have taken, although we spent more time in the jeep than hiking or taking photos. But the mountain views couldn’t be more awe inspiring and rewarding. The tea ceremony offered by our driver was one of the very few and relaxing moments we had on this trip.
Gong Ga Snow Mountain at Sunset
The Gong Ga Snow Mountain (Minya Konka), the tallest mountain in Sichuan, was the highlight of all highlights of this journey. Its towering summit, standing high at 7556 meters, often referred to as the "King of Sichuan Mountains," is a masterpiece of natural beauty, guaranteed to be a centerpiece of your photography collection.
On our last day of the west Sichuan roadtrip in China, we cut down our travel time and settled at the secondary viewing option for Gong Ga.
Due to high altitude sickness and a combination of food / sleep issues, our 7 yo refused to eat anything four days straight, spending bulk of the time sleeping in the jeep on our daily long drive.
The top viewing option, photography wise, was only accessible by horse back ride for 40 minutes both ways. It wasn’t an option for our little guy, so our driver helped us change route and hotel stay for the last night.
Sunset is the best time to photograph this majestic peak, as the fading sunlight paints the snow-capped mountain in hues of orange, pink, and gold.
Despite the stunning views on the entire road trip, we traveled long distance in a 4x4 jeep every day, often with no time to stop during sunset. Before Gong Ga, I only took out my tripod once for a short 10-minute sunset break on Gan Bai Road.
This time, we arrived at Gong Ga peak way before sunset, I finally took out my tripods, for the second time.
Finding a vantage point before sunset is a must, as the alpenglow effect transforms Gong Ga into a surreal, almost otherworldly sight.
Our driver guide was very experienced to know when to arrive at the mountain top. There was limited parking at the viewing point, named The Secret Realm of Carrying a Cage. Anyone arriving late would have to park along the lower slope and hike up on the dirt cliff path over 4000m altitude. We were grateful we arrived early and didn’t have to hike up.
I took over 2000 photos that evening, mostly for time lapse. This accounted for nearly 20% of all the photos I took for the entire 1-month China trip.
Our 7 yo also showed up in some pictures even he spent only a short while out of our jeep.
Jia Geng Ba
Located in the highlands of Sichuan Province, Jia Geng Ba is a serene Tibetan village surrounded by sweeping grasslands, snow-capped peaks, and crystal-clear streams.
Known for its traditional Tibetan architecture and vibrant cultural heritage, the village offers visitors a glimpse into the authentic lifestyle of the local nomadic communities. For the first time, we walked into a Tibetan local’s home, thanks to the arrangement of our driver.
Yaks graze in the meadows, and colorful prayer flags flutter in the wind, creating a tranquil and picturesque scene.
During spring and summer, the area blooms with wildflowers, adding a splash of color to the already stunning landscape, making Jia Geng Ba a hidden gem for travelers and photographers alike. In late October, when we arrived, we could still witness the tail end of fall colors.
Cuo Pu Gou: The Hidden Valley
Cuo Pu Gou is a secluded valley that feels like a hidden paradise. Perhaps due to a $80 entrance fee (for a group of four, compared to free to most of the above sites), and a snowy weather, we didn’t have many companies. Nevertheless, we totally enjoyed the unique scene.
With its turquoise lakes, lush meadows, and dense forests, it’s a dream for nature photographers.
The Tibetan influence is evident in the prayer flags fluttering along the trails and the small shrines scattered across the landscape.
Logistic Tips
Altitude and Weather
With altitudes ranging from 3,500 to nearly 5,000 meters, acclimatization is essential to avoid altitude sickness. Stay hydrated and carry medications like acetazolamide. Our driver prepared more than 10 tanks (at large water bottle size) of oxygen for us, but we held out not using any of them.
Highest point of this trip at 4939m, on Genie South Pass
Layered clothing is crucial to handle the region’s unpredictable weather, where sunny mornings turn into chilly afternoons, rain showers or even snow storms, of which we have all experienced.
Transportation
We hired a cross-country jeep and a driver for the entire road trip, covering 10 days, which was invaluable for tackling rugged roads, remote distances, and finding restaurants.
A knowledgeable local driver can also enhance your experience by offering insights into the region and culture.
There are multiple gateways for passport checks along the way, typically in and out of a town or county. We covered 11 out of 18 towns/counties in Ganzi State of Sichuan Province and had our passports checked multiple times, even we were traveling within the same province of China.
Hotel
Hotels are mostly comfortable. Half of our hotels have fancy toilets - bidets with auto cover and other features. Some feel slightly more luxury than the other. But don’t expect 5 star hotel amenities, as you will mostly stay in tiny towns. On two occasions, we stayed at BnBs, which were more basic. All provided breakfast for free.
As foreign visitors, you are required to stay only at hotels allowed to accommodate foreigners, mostly with ratings of 3 stars or above.
Each hotel also had to register us with local authority at checkin, not only for basic passport info, but also our stay the day before and after.
We are big Airbnb fans, but there’s no Airbnb in China. This is part of the big reason I had to outsource the road trip logistics to a local travel agency I found social media. In addition, due to the vast area that the route covers, the sparse population density and challenge to find hotels or BnBs in small towns catering foreigners, it was more convenient to outsource the logistics.
However, it’s still doable to arrange all the logistics on your own. The most useful travel app in China is Ctrip.
You can not only book hotels but also “airbnb” type local homes, as long as their listing states “accepting foreigners”. Although there was one occasion I booked and was later refunded and told the listing actually didn’t accommodate foreigners. So double check to make sure.
Payment
This is the biggest step up from any country we’ve visited. Throughout our entire 1 month trip in China, not only for this road trip, but four more cities, we haven’t carried wallet one single day.
All the payment is done through mobile. The most useful app is Alipay and Wechat. Through each app, which is linked to your debit or credit cards, you can buy train tickets, call taxi, order food delivery, make restaurant reservation, make payment to vendors or have vendors charge you through QR code.
It is more convenient than the US or any other countries we’ve visited, as you can completely live without your wallet, as long as you have a smartphone.
Unique Food
Western Sichuan offers a mix of Tibetan and Sichuan cuisines distinct from typical Chinese food. In Tibetan areas, try yak butter tea, tsampa, and hearty yak stews, while Sichuan areas feature spicy hotpots and dishes with fiery chili and numbing Sichuan peppercorns.
Restaurants were mostly basic on this road trip (different from the big cities we visited). We simply followed wherever our driver took us. He is a local foodie, and made great picks most of the time.
The major issue is spicy food plus high altitude, which sometimes makes you extra bloated. We often felt we could either skip breakfast or dinner in order to readjust.
This is also a key challenge for our kids, who are picky eaters and don’t eat spicy food. One lived on plain rice, the other refused to eat for many days. But if you are open to try, the local food is delicious.
Photo Tips
1 - Light and Timing
Although I’d always suggest “golden hour”, due to the long drive every day, we didn’t have many choices to stop at the perfect hour. Weather also changes often in the mountains.
In the first half of the road trip, we typically woke up at 3 or 4am due to jet lags, and theoretically could arrange landscape photography at sunrise. In reality, it was not realistic since we travel with kids, and were not the driver.
Nevertheless, if you can manage, try to make the best use of golden hours (after sunrise and before sunset), the most magic hour, to take your photos, no matter for people or landscape.
If you are serious about photography, check out my free video tutorial “Your WOW Shot Blueprint” or other freebies to elevate your skills.
2 - Lens Choices
Different from my typical landscape photography practice when I use wide-angle lens more often for capturing expansive vistas, I used telephoto lens most of the time for landscape in this trip.
Due to the high altitude, we didn’t hike that much. We were not flexible to choose our vantage point. It’s much easier to zoom in a snow mountain that might otherwise look too far away in a wide angle frame.
In occasions with big crowd, such as Four Ladies Mountain, it’s easier to use telephoto lens to focus on far away scenes to eliminate the crowd in the foreground as well.
If you read this far, check out the video below where I talked in detail why I used my Canon RF70-200mm f2.8 extensively on this trip.
3 - Altitude Preparation
Pack lightweight gear and pace yourself to conserve energy while shooting in high-altitude conditions.
This road trip through Western Sichuan combines the awe-inspiring natural beauty of Genie and Gong Ga Mountains with the spiritual depth of Dege’s sacred temple. Despite the challenges, careful preparation ensures an unforgettable adventure filled with spectacular landscapes and authentic Tibetan culture, offering memories and images to treasure for a lifetime.
Last but not least, if you have read this long to the end, and wonder what Sichuan province in China is best known for?
1 - it’s hometown to panda
2 - its spicy food featuring numbing spices
3 - it’s the hometown of youtube queen Liziqi, with 20M subscribers. Check out this video of hers and you’ll know why.
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