Iceland In June: 2-Week Road Trip Itinerary And 20 Waterfalls (Part 2)
Let me continue sharing our Iceland road trip itinerary, as well as my photo experience and learnings of photographing the rest of 20 waterfalls in the less traveled part of Iceland.
If you haven’t yet, make sure to read my last blog post: Iceland In June: 2-Week Road Trip Itinerary And 20 Waterfalls (Part 1), where I’ve shared logistic tips on how to plan your Iceland ring road trip, and what to expect in June in terms of weather, road condition as well as best photo subjects etc.
Day 5 - South Iceland
Despite spending 14 hours on the road on day 4, we didn’t have enough time to visit all the sites in South Iceland.
Having briefly rested near Höfn, a small town in the southeast of Iceland, we turned back on day 5 and revisited Skaftafell area.
Skaftafell
Skaftafell, part of Vatnajökull National Park in Iceland, is a stunning natural reserve renowned for its diverse landscapes, including lush birch forests, striking glaciers, and the iconic Svartifoss waterfall framed by basalt columns.
This scenic area offers numerous hiking trails and breathtaking vistas, making it a paradise for nature lovers and photographers alike.
We waited out in Höfn till the evening. It was overcast for the whole day with spotty drizzle. We weren’t sure if a hike was a good idea but we decided to try it anyway.
By the time we parked at Svartifoss trailhead in Skaftafell, we noticed the parking lot mentioned 12 o’clock midnight as closing hour. We didn’t really know how they would close the open parking lot, but wanted to comply with the rules.
Therefore this hike was a bit rushed, given we arrived at 10:30pm.
We did this hike 10 years ago but the trail was covered by snow. So it was a completely new scene and experience.
waterfall 10, 11 - Hundafoss, Svartifoss
Hundafoss was the first and tallest waterfall on this trail. It’s pretty easy to photograph. You will face it directly from the viewing platform, the best angle to see and take photo of it.
We skipped the second waterfall, and went directly to Svartifoss.
Maybe I already knew what the waterfall looked like, I enjoyed the hike more than the waterfall itself.
Nevertheless, if you visit Iceland for the first time in other season and plan to explore the ice cave in Vatnajökull National Park (not open in summer), or take more snow or ice adventures, you should plan a stop at Svartifoss, a major landmark in this area.
ISO100, 24mm, f/13, 5sec with ND filter
We were lucky to have enjoyed the area all by ourselves. The only thing I didn’t like was the viewing platform sticking out to the waterfall so I had to manage the right composition with my wide angle lens in order not to include it.
On our way back, we were the only car on the ring road. We saw the best fiery sky since the beginning of the trip, and I felt compelled to photograph it.
For the first time, we made a stop right in the middle of the road as we couldn’t find anywhere else to park.
I jumped off the road, and picked a swampy pond as my foreground to reflect the sky color. It was in the middle of nowhere and the perfect way to wrap up our day!
This is what I repeatedly mentioned in the past. Your photograph is a reflection of who you are, and your unique experience. You don’t have to photograph in the same spot as other photographers do. Have an open eye and open mind, because beauty is everywhere.
I wanted to make a second attempt to photograph Iceberg in Diamond Beach, right opposite Jökulsárlón lagoon we briefly stopped at the previous night.
Unfortunately, there were only a handful icebergs on the beach, and they were tiny compared to what I saw 10 years ago (in different season).
But the colors were still gorgeous at 2am, thanks to the midnight sun. My husband took the boys to Jökulsárlón lagoon to try their luck to spot seals, so I had the entire Diamond Beach all to myself, and I had time!
I clicked 130 versions of the ocean waves brushing on the only tiny iceberg that could be touched by water. Was this crazy or fun? I believe to different people, the answer would be different. I sure enjoyed it.
Day 6 - East Iceland
We continued our Iceland road trip eastward and had a down day. We had big blue sky during the day and heavy fog throughout the entire night.
For the first time, we stayed in at night. But the hiking trail right outside our farm lodge was too tempting. We saw swans, reindeer wandering around the farm.
Our 9 yo made some new friends, who showed him around the off the beaten path.
This part of Iceland (and our onward trip) is much less crowded and touristy. If you enjoy untouched beauty and nature scenes, you should come to see it.
Day 7 - East Iceland
We spent 14 hours on the road on this day, exploring the off the beaten path along the east coast.
Logistic Tip
I mentioned in one of my Morocco blog posts before:
Our rule of thumb when traveling with kids: whatever the drive time estimated by google map, double that and you’ll get actual travel time on the road. Therefore, we typically budget our daily drive distance no more than 3-4 hours by google map, as that translates into 6-8 actual hours on the road.
This time in Iceland, we were slightly more “aggressive” as we knew we wouldn’t travel in dark. In fact, we would like to stay outside around midnight hours as much as possible, because those were the best time to take landscape photos.
As you can see from the map below, the driving distance was about 7 hours, but actual time we spent on the road was 14. Whenever we had a long driving day, we made sure to have a few slow days afterwards so everyone can recharge and balance.
Waterfall 12, 13 - Folaldafoss and unknown roadside waterfall
We didn’t plan this, but took the wrong turn from ring road 1. So Folaldafoss was a surprise find, and it was totally worthwhile.
After a whole night of fog, the fog was still hanging over Folaldafoss and its surrounding mountains at midday. There are “many” waterfalls in the area, but the challenge for us was to find parking along the narrow, gravel road with twists and turns.
At one point, I had to jump off the road and set up my tripod behind the railing, just to photograph some unknown waterfalls and cascades.
We took a big detour to Borgarfjarðarhöfn (another long name hard to pronounce or remember), and saw a large colony of puffins, for the first time.
By that, our 9 yo fulfilled another goal for his Iceland trip, so did I.
I had to confess, besides the waterfall, I anticipated to photograph puffins in this trip. Without knowing our chances, I kept my expectation low. Borgarfjarðarhöfn totally exceeded my expectations.
Logistic Tip
Do you know?
The best time to see puffins in Iceland is from late April to early September. During this period, these charming birds come ashore to breed and nest in the coastal cliffs, with the peak viewing months being June and July when the puffin colonies are most active.
Borgarfjarðarhöfn, located in the remote Borgarfjörður Eystri region of east Iceland, is renowned for its vibrant puffin colony, where visitors can observe these charming seabirds up close during the summer months. The picturesque harbor, surrounded by dramatic cliffs and rugged landscapes, offers a peaceful retreat and a unique bird-watching experience.
We later explored a number of other spots known to have puffin colonies, but Borgarfjarðarhöfn is our favorite and easiest to photograph puffins within close distance.
In addition to puffins, we saw reindeer again along the east coast. They were pretty far but we had the opportunity to park at the road side so I took some snapshots. Below right was the cropped version from the picture taken at 200mm, just to have the enlarged view.
Our kids played snow at one of the few parking lot off 94, the only route you will take off ring road 1 all the way to Borgarfjarðarhöfn.
There was a lot more snow we saw on our drive from Borgarfjarðarhöfn to our 3rd guesthouse in Granastaðir, a small village close to Goðafoss, the main waterfall I planned to photograph. It is also with reasonable driving distance to the attractions in northeast Iceland such as Dettifoss and Lake Myvatn area.
Suspension Bridge over Jökulsá á Fjöllum, Iceland
We highly recommend Granastaðir Guesthouse, our 4th accommodation in Iceland, a charming farmhouse with tasteful decor and thoughtful amenities. We were only able to book for 2 nights as it was sold out.
Day 8 & 9 - North Iceland highlights
We spent hours on the road on day 8 to see Dettifoss, namely the most powerful waterfall in Iceland.
There were two options to view the waterfall. Its east bank and west bank looked close on the map but took 1 hour to drive. We took the easy west route first, only to find the road access to the waterfall was closed due to snow melt.
We didn’t give up, and drove all the way to the east bank, and was blocked once again in the last part.
That was a disappointment given Dettifoss was one of my most anticipated waterfalls to photograph. Because of the road closure, our plan to see Hafragilsfoss, another nearby waterfall, also fell apart.
Perhaps we have to save them for a future trip.
Námafjall Hverir
A geothermal area in Iceland known for its otherworldly landscape of bubbling mud pots, steaming fumaroles, and vibrant mineral deposits. The strikingly colorful and active geothermal features make it a fascinating and photogenic spot for visitors exploring the country's volcanic regions.
It reminded us of Yellowstone, but with much less crowd, perhaps because we stopped by at night time.
Waterfall 14 - Goðafoss
Goðafoss, known as the "Waterfall of the Gods," is a majestic and historically significant waterfall in Iceland, featuring a horseshoe-shaped cascade that spans 30 meters wide and drops 12 meters into a turquoise pool. Its powerful flow and scenic surroundings make it a popular destination for photographers and nature enthusiasts alike.
This was another highly anticipated waterfall I planned to photograph in Iceland. By the time we arrived, it was already after midnight. There were very few people around.
We visited the same waterfall the second morning. There was a big crowd. And the light was completely different.
Photo tip
Choosing the right time to photograph landscape will make a huge difference to your photo quality. If two photographers have the same camera equipment, are at the same spot with the same skills, the one picking the right time to photograph will most likely get away with a much better photo.
Why do I say “most likely” not “definitely”, well, there are many other factors that might affect the outcome of your photo. But that’s another topic we can save for the future.
See the above two photos. The one on the left was taken in the midnight golden hour, the one on the right was taken in the bright day light the second day.
Can you see the difference? The color, the mood of these two photos? The one on the right taken in harsh light will not provoke the same feeling as the one taken in the soft light during golden hour. Even if you are not a photographer, I bet you’ll remember the scene on the left much better.
Thanks to my family for driving around on the dirt road and hanging out with me somewhere in the Iceland wilderness, sometime between 9pm - 4am, every day on this trip, so I could enjoy and photograph the Mother Nature in its best colors. This is not a photo tip, but family support is important. I certainly don’t want to take this for granted.
On day 9, we continued westward and made a stop at Fosslaug. Everyone was pretty tired, so I took a one hour hike around the area by myself.
Waterfall 15 - Fosslaug
Fosslaug is a serene hot spring located near a picturesque waterfall in the Skagafjörður region of north Iceland, offering a tranquil and scenic spot for a relaxing soak.
Surrounded by lush greenery and natural beauty, it provides a unique and peaceful retreat for visitors.
It was in bright sunlight in the evening, not my favorite time to photograph landscape. I bet it would be a different result if I came back at midnight.
That night, we settled in our 5th accommodation in Iceland, in a small coastal town called Skagaströnd.
Day 10 & 11 - North & Northwest Iceland
We walked around Skagaströnd and drove around the entire Skagi Peninsula, a remote and tranquil region in north Iceland, known for its rugged coastline, sweeping vistas, and rich birdlife, offering a peaceful escape into untouched natural beauty.
The bulk of the drive around Skagi Peninsula was on gravel road. We saw lots of horses and sheep throughout Iceland, but still couldn’t tell whether they were wild or farmed. If I had to make a guess, the ones on Skagi Peninsula were more likely to be wild, since there were nobody around.
We saw white swans again. But by the time I ventured to walk closer they wobbled away as well.
Clearly, I had to use a longer lens for wild animals in the future. This is an investment on my list but I just never pulled the trigger. Wild animals were not my main photo subjects in any trips before, but this Iceland trip got me seriously intrigued.
Kálfshamarsviti
Kálfshamarsviti is a picturesque lighthouse on the Skagi Peninsula in Iceland, set against dramatic basalt columns and offering stunning views of the rugged coastline and the North Atlantic Ocean.
We passed many lighthouses in Iceland, but I didn’t find them particularly attractive or interesting. I skipped photographing them until we saw Kálfshamarsviti.
We were the only visitors. The golden hour colors after 10pm cast a warm color on the landscape. It was perfect. I snapped a number of shots of the lighthouse and somewhat diversified my photo subjects for this trip.
waterfall 16 - Ketubjörg
There were two nice waterfalls along the northeast coast of Skagi Peninsula.
When I stood in awe and photographed the first, a big fog swept in, blanketing the entire coast. I waited for a while at the parking lot for the second waterfall, but eventually had to give up.
Iceland weather changes often. Sometimes you can experience different weather, for better or worse, just in a matter of 20 minutes. This time, luck wasn’t on my side.
Waterfall 17 - Kolufossar
Kolugjúfur is a dramatic gorge in Iceland, where the Kolufossar waterfalls cascade into a deep, rugged canyon, creating a breathtaking natural spectacle.
We made a small evening tour to see this waterfall on our last evening in north Iceland. Again, we were the only visitors.
There were some farm houses and roads nearby, so the area didn’t look as secluded or untouched as some other locations. Nevertheless, I still enjoyed photographing this waterfall, and walked around to get shots from different angles.
We encountered almost no one during our 3-day stay in Skagi Peninsula, partly because we were mostly out around midnight hours, and partly because few tourists bothered to come here when they can easily access popular sites in the south and west.
In my opinion the untouched beauty in Skagi Peninsula and its surrounding areas has such unique charm. If I come back to revisit one day I’d like to see it again.
Day 12 & 13 - North & Northwest Iceland
It was a long drive on day 12. We had to cancel our plan to see Kirkjufell due to bad weather.
Kirkjufell, often called "Church Mountain," is an iconic and uniquely shaped peak on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula in west Iceland, frequently photographed alongside the cascading Kirkjufellsfoss waterfall. This area is a must visit. We saw it 10 years ago. I only had the frozen version of the waterfall. It seemed I had to save a future trip to Iceland to get the non-frozen version one day.
On our way back to the capital city, we did encounter a few other less known waterfalls along the way.
Waterfall 18, 19 - Ullarfoss 1 & 2
Ullarfoss, a hidden gem, features a powerful cascade set within a serene and rugged landscape, perfect for those seeking tranquility and natural beauty.
But if you continue to walk after seeing the first waterfall, you’ll find more.
We totally enjoyed our hike in the area (a bit tricky as you have to pass some farm fences), and was fascinated by the enchanting scene.
While I set my tripod in a few different spots to adjust my composition, our kids were busy skipping stones. We stayed for quite a while and no one came around, even we came during the day time.
Waterfall 20 - Glanni Waterfall
Located in West Iceland near Bifröst, Glanni Waterfall is a beautiful multi-tiered cascade surrounded by lush greenery and volcanic rock formations, offering a picturesque and tranquil setting for visitors.
Even better, it was very easy to access with only minutes walk from the parking lot. No tricky treasure hunt. Finding it was straightforward.
This was the last waterfall I photographed before driving back to Reykjavik, the capital city.
My Photo Goals - The colorful Iceland
I was so carried away by the rich plantation throughout Iceland in this trip, something we totally didn’t experience 10 years ago.
Apart from waterfalls, puffins and some wild animals, one of my photo goals was to photograph the blue flowers as a landscape photo foreground in particular.
In my mind Kirkjufell would be the perfect location but since we skipped it, I had to come up with something else.
Somewhere on our way back to Reykjavik along the ring road, I stepped out of the car and captured this. Without a prominent mountain as my subject, I waited out on the road and picked a red car as a pop of color.
Funny we later saw these flowers almost everywhere in the capital city. But photographing them on the road side in the middle of nowhere is something special, and hopefully a good memory to keep.
trip Wrap-up
We spent our last two days exploring thermal swimming pools in the city. I’m glad we didn’t pack our swimming suits for no reasons. Our kids totally had a blast. No photos were allowed in any swimming pools though.
On our last day, I took the elevator to the top of Hallgrímskirkja church with our 6 yo, and enjoyed the rooftop view of Reykjavik for the second time after 10 years.
Even we planned the trip in the last minute, everything turned out to be simply perfect. We flew out of Iceland on day 14. No jetlags so far thanks to our late night schedule.
Last but not least, traveling with kids could be challenging. We had to deal with all kinds of unpredictable situations, and find ways to balance our travel agenda with kids activities. Perhaps I’ll discuss later as a separate topic one day.
If you are into landscape photography and travel with kids, check out my tips on How To Photograph Landscape While Traveling With Young Children. I shared it 5 years ago and the tips are still valid.
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